Male ? Female?

The sex of snakes is normally written in numbers, and not with names for symbols. The first number is always for males, the second for females and the third is for snakes where the sex is not determined. So 1.2.3 would mean 1 male, 2 females and 3 where the sex is unknown.

How to determine the sex of a Corn Snake

The sex of a Corn Snake can be determined using one of three methods: 1. By looking at the base of the tail, by males it is possible to see that the tail base thick is and does not taper quickly away, this is due to the hemipenis of the snake, by females is the tail visibly thinner and tapers away much quicker than that of males and is shorter (best to see with adults) 2. Popping. Here the hemipenis will be gently forced out so that they are visible,only when you see the hemipenis can you be sure it is a male. Some snakes contract thier muscles strongly so that it is not possible to push the hemipenis out. But remember you can only be 100% sure that it is a male if you see the hemipenis. This should only be done by experienced „poppers“ or under supervision from such a person, it must be done gently so that the snakes will not be injured. 3. Probing. This is the most reliable method. A special needle, known as a probe is disinfected with alcohol, and then covered with a petroleum jelly for lubrication. The probe is then gently pushed into the cloaca (in the direction towards the tail end). Due to the fact that the males hemipenis is hidden in the tail, the probe can be pushed in further as by a female. By males about 4 – 12 scales deep and by females 1 – 3 scales deep. This also should only be done by experienced probers, vor under supervision of such people. The possibility of injuring the snake is quite high with this method, if done incorrectly the snake could end up infertile (this is known as leak puncture). But if you follow the instructions and have an experienced person to supervise then there should be no worries.

Hibernation???

Breeders are very divided about the point of hibernation. Some breeders give thier snakes a short hibernation others don't. Some only put the males in hibernation, so that they can continue feeding the females that they are ready to breed. By males a hibernation helps with the amount and quality of sperm that will be produced. Snakes should start hibernation in mid October, this means to stop feeding them (only if they are in good health and a good condition), then start to dailly reduce the temperature until it is around 18 degrees, this enables the snakes to do any digestion still necessary. If there is any food left in the stomach that cannot be digested because the temperature is too low, then this could cause problems for the snake, and even cause death. Due to the temperature reduction you will notice the snakes become less and less active. After about a week then you can reduce the temperature to about 10 – 14 and then leave it at that temperature, the temperature should never fall lower than 6 degrees. Leave the snakes completely in peace, they should only be diturbed when changing the water. Around mid January you can start to slowly raise the temperature again, after a week it should be back to about 28 degrees, during this time you should also increase the light period back to normal, this gives them the spring feeling. Then you can start feeding again, first with smaller meals and then gradually increase the size until the normal size of meals is achieved, this is to reduce the problem of flatulance and gives the stomach the chance to stretch back to its normal size, this also reduces the risk of regurgitation of food.

Age and weight for breeding

The weight , age and size of a female is very important for breeding.The weight should be a minimum of 350 gramms, laying eggs is a very hard process for the female. She can lose up to a third of her body weight just by laying the eggs. She should be at least 2 years old before being used for breeding. She should be well fed but not fat. The size is also important, she should be at least 95cm long. But for example a 3 year old snake that weighs 350 gramms and is 130cm long, should not be used for breeding, she is too thin.

The breeding act.

The breeding season starts in March (vor directly after the first shed after hibernation) and ends in June/ July. You may give the snakes more food now if you like. Pre killed adult mice are probably the best, the icreased calcium intake is good for the female by the production of the eggs, and for the male by the sperm production. Please note: On the continent it is legal to feed live mice, in Great Britain it is illegal. On the continent it is illegal to kill mice, this is only allowed to be done by qualified people. Het vrouwtje zal feromonen uitscheiden, die het sterkst ruiken na de vervelling, mannetjes kunnen zo hun eigen soortgenoten herkennen. De mannetjes kunnen al voor de eerste vervelling na de winterslaap actief worden en gaan paren. Zet altijd het mannetje bij het vrouwtje en niet andersom. The female starts to release her pheromons after the post hibernation shed, males then get into the breeding mood due to the smell of a females pheromone, some males become ready to breed even before the post hibernation shed. It is always the males that are the active part of the pair. The pheromone is, as is all other aromas, are taken by the tongue to the Jacobsons organ. This is the way that males can tell if a female is ready to breed, he smells the air to see if a female of his own species is ready to breed. He then approaches the femaleand tries to wrap his tail around the tail of the female so that bothh cloacas are next to each other. The female will try several times to escape the grip of the man, but this is part of the „game“. The male doesn't give up easily and keeps trying to pin the female down. Once he has succeeded in pinning the female down then he will insert one of the hemipenis into the females cloaca so that he can transfer his sperm into the female. Once the male has inserted his hemipenis he then lies very still, there is only a slight pumping movement to be seen in his tail, this is to pump his sperm into the female. This will take place a few times over the next few days, after a few successful attempts the female will lose interest and not let the male pin her down any more.

Incubation

Snakes have a massive ovulation. All egg cells are released simultaneously, once the eggs have been fertilised the egg shell begins to form. Females snakes have the possibility to store sperm for up to 6 months, in some cases even up to a year. . This enables the female to fertilise the eggs herself if no male is available. The eggs will be laid about 25 – 35 days after the pairing. At first the female will shed, approximately 10 – 21 days after the shed she will lay the eggs. The females searches for a suitable place to lay her eggs. Preferably a dark, moist and warm place, which means you as breeder need to place such a place into the Vivarium. The egg boy can be filled with a moist substrate, like sphagnum moss vor Vermiculite.The box will need to be kept warm and moist, it is best to have more than one egg box in the Vivarium so that the female can choose herself which is best ( a female that has no suitable place to lay her eggs usually lays them in the water bowl, this usually means the eggs will die). A few days before the eggs will be laid, the snake becomes restless. Once all eggs are laid they should be removed as soon as possible. Whilst removing the eggs you must be careful that the eggs are not turned, reptile eggs are not the same as bird eggs, the embryo in reptile eggs swims to the top of the egg and sticks thier, if the egg is turned then the embryo will die. Also eggs that are stuck to each other cannot be separated, this will damage the eggs and cause them to die. The eggs should be put into a moist substrate, a good choice is Vermiculite, it takes up a lot of moisture and holds it for a long time. A good measure is 1 litre of water to 1 litre of Vermiculite, put the mix in a box with holes on the side. Once the moisture is correct then you can lay the eggs, half buried, without turning them into the Vermiculite. The best temperature for incubating is between 27 and 29 degrees. The eggs should hatch after about 55 – 75 days. Incubation temperatures above 30 degrees will produce smaller hatchlings, some of which may be deformed or dead. By lifting the lid every few days there should be enough fresh air for the eggs, this means the embryos will not suffocate in the eggs. The egg shell is full of pores so that a oxygen/ carbon dioxide exchange can take place. The hatchlings have an egg tooth to ensure that they can get out of thier egg. The egg tooth is a normal tooth that grows in another direction. Actually it is 2 teeth, they grow forward out of the mouth, and they fall off shortly after hatching. It is important that the hatchlings do not get stuck in the egg, he needs to be able to turn so that he can use his egg tooth to get out of the egg at the top. A snake can get stuck in the egg if the egg becomes too moist towards the end of the incubation. This causes the egg to take up to much moisture, which in turn causes the hatchling to swell up and it cannot turn anymore. Once the snakes start to turn in thier eggs you can notice a deformation, and dents in the egg. Usually you can then see some liquid on the egg, this is caused by the hatchlings slitting the egg with thier egg tooth and the liquid from the egg comes out. Once the snake has a slit in the egg that is big enough, then he will stick his nose out to breathe his first breath of air, at this stage they are called „pippies“. Once the first pippie is out then you will see the next one and the next one............................ The snakes can stay in this position for upto 2 days, at this point they are getting used to breathing air and not through the egg, also they can hide in the egg, which they will do at every disturbance. Also the snakes still have some of the egg yolk attached and live from this until it is used up. Once the breathing has got used to air and the egg yolk has been absorbed the snake will come out of the egg. Do not try to make things easier for the snake by turning the egg or cutting the egg, rest and no disturbance is the best thing.

Hatchlings

The small worm like creatures that come out of the egg are called hatchlings. All hatchlings should be taken out of the incubation box and kept individually in small boxes, this gives the hatchlings the chance to recover in peace and quite from the hatching. A moist piece of kitchen paper can be used as substrate, a water bowl and a hiding place is all the hatchlings need in thier box. Use luke warm water because the hatchlings are cold blooded. After about 1 week the hatchlings will shed thier skin for the first time, only after this first shed should you offer food (baby mouse, known as pinkie). Keep notes of each snake about shedding and feeding, this is important for you to be able to monitor health etc from each snake.